Monday, October 26, 2015

Story in the Grand Junction Sentinel!

http://www.gjsentinel.com/news/articles/group-secures-three-key-cliffs-ensuring-space-for#

Group secures three key cliffs, ensuring space for climbing


Eve Tallman, of the Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition, scales a cliff in Unweep Canyon. The local nonprofit organization now owns three important cliffs in Unaweep Canyon — Sunday, Fortress and Hidden Valley — after a land transfer from The Access Fund. The move secured 50 acres of climbing space that includes about 200 top-rated, granite climbing routes. “This marks a key milestone in the 25-year history of conservation and public access in the canyon,” WCCC said in a release.


A local nonprofit climbing organization now is the owner of three important cliffs in Unaweep Canyon, a move that secures 50 acres of access for climbers that includes about 200 top-rated, granite climbing routes.
Grand Junction’s Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition reported the land transfer from The Access Fund for the cliffs known as Sunday, Fortress and Hidden Valley.
“This marks a key milestone in the 25-year history of conservation and public access in the canyon,” WCCC reported in a release.
The Access Fund said in the release that it will retain a permanent conservation and recreation easement on the properties “to back up WCCCs’ longterm commitment and ensure conservation and climbing access into perpetuity.”
The Access Fund originally purchased the cliffs in 1991 along with three local climbers. WCCC purchased the Upper Mothers Buttress with the help of two climbers in 2010. In 2014, WCCC finalized negotiations and obtained a $134,000 Access Fund Climbing Conservation loan to purchase Lower Mothers Buttress and Television Wall areas.
A fundraising campaign by WCCC included obtaining grants from The Access Fund, Alpenglow Foundation, Shaw Construction and Realtor Christi Reece, among others.
WCCC said it will maintain the cliff line, while subdividing and selling residential lots along Colorado Highway 141.
“Protecting Unaweep Canyon’s cliff line is an important part of WCCC’s work and mission as the local nonprofit organization for this region,” said Jesse Zacher, who is the president of WCCC.
For more information on WCCC, visit its website at westernslopeclimbers.blogspot.com.
The group’s next meeting starts at 6:30 p.m. Nov. 9 at the Grand Valley Climbing Center, 611 25 Road.

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Unacceptable Chipping at Bullet Holes Boulder

I have recently come across some new chipped holds on the Bullet Hole boulder. This chipping happened sometime after April 2015. I’m not posting this to call anyone out; it is quite possible that the person or persons responsible do not know that chipping is unacceptable in this area and is highly frowned upon by land managers. This new “route” is just to the right of another chipped route and in an area where chipping happened in the past. Most of the chipping in this area is decades old and is looked at as an eyesore. If you are the person or persons responsible, please stop this practice.
Chipping, gluing or otherwise “improving” the rock to enhance a route is never acceptable. It robs future climbers of the potential to establish harder and harder routes. Chipping or adding holds to a route or potential route presumes that no one will ever be able to climb at a higher standard; therefore the thinking goes it is deemed to be okay to alter the rock. This thinking has been proven to be in error time and time again. This practice is also looked at as vandalism by many land managers, including the City of Grand Junction, which owns and manages this property, and it makes us climbers look bad as users of this property.
Please respect a no-chipping ethic. If you can't do this problem, try another.
Randall Chapman

Monday, October 19, 2015

Access Fund Transfers Unaweep Cliffs for Local Safeguarding




Access Fund and WCCC are pleased to announce the transfer of three major cliffs in Unaweep Canyon from Access Fund to WCCC. This marks a key milestone in the 25-year history of conservation and public access in the canyon. 
This transfer consolidates and permanently protects 50 acres of land under local nonprofit ownership by WCCC. The 50 acres includes eight cliffs and approximately 200 high-quality granite climbing routes, acquired by either Access Fund or WCCC since the early 1990s. Access Fund will maintain a permanent conservation and recreation easement on these properties to back up WCCC’s long-term commitment and ensure conservation and climbing access into perpetuity.
“Conservation of Unaweep Canyon has been a partnership since the beginning,” says Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson. “Our goal is to empower and support local climbing organizations like WCCC to own, manage, and steward their local climbing areas.”
Access Fund purchased the cliffs known as Sunday, Fortress, and Hidden Valley in 1991 in partnership with three local climbers. Further west, WCCC secured the Upper Mothers Buttress with the help of Colorado climbers John and Marti Peterson in 2010. Then in October of 2014, WCCC completed a long negotiation to purchase the Lower Mothers Buttress and Television Wall areas with a $134,200 Access Fund Climbing Conservation Loan.
WCCC conducted an extensive fund-raising effort that included grants from the Access Fund and Alpenglow Foundation, as well as gifts from Shaw Construction, realtor Christi Reece, and others. WCCC will maintain the cliff line and public access while subdividing and selling residential lots along State Highway 141. A similar conservation strategy was successfully employed by Access Fund in the 1990s and allowed WCCC to secure Upper Mothers Buttress in 2010. The Access Fund easement will protect the land for public access, and the transfer will enable WCCC to adjust property lines for the future sale of road frontage. WCCC is currently working on the pending subdivision and sale with a potential buyer that has expressed a shared interest in climbing and conservation of Unaweep Canyon.
“Protecting Unaweep Canyon’s cliff line is an important part of WCCC’s work and mission as the local nonprofit climbing organization for the region,” says WCCC President Jesse Zacher. “We’re fortunate to have great partners and supporters to make this project happen.” WCCC extends its thanks to Steve Johnson, Marc Kenney, and Dave Foley for providing pro bono legal, engineering, and survey work.
WCCC needs the continued support of climbers, recreationists, and the people of western Colorado to fundraise for the acquisition and stewardship of Unaweep Cliffs. Donations are encouraged and can be madehere, on our website.

Saturday, October 17, 2015

New Member Special: Join THE ACCESS FUND this Week and Get a Free T-Shirt!

If you're not already a member of the Access Fund, you can join this week for just $35 and get a free t-shirt with exclusive Hueco Tanks artwork by Fred Nicole (a gift normally reserved for $50 members)!

AF is the major partner of the Western Colorado Climbers' Coalition.  When you join the Access Fund you are joining thousands of other climbers who are dedicated to keeping our climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. Your $35 membership can make a big difference, helping to:
  • Put threatened land in climber friendly hands
  • Keep climbing areas open that might otherwise be closed 
  • Educate climbers on how to have minimum impact 
  • Clean up our crags 
  • Advocate for climbers' interests in Washington, DC 
We can't do this critical work without the support of climbers like you. If you're already a member--THANK YOU--and please consider forwarding this offer to your friends and climbing partners. accessfund.org
 

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Trail Day Details

Help us celebrate our new crags!
October 26, 10am
Mothers Buttress trailhead

Trailwork for a few hours, then a potluck picnic lunch followed by some climbing!

Bring work gloves, water, some lunch fixings to share.

PRIZES!

Thanks, all, for helping us secure the Lower Mothers Buttress and Television Wall for climbers and hikers!

WCCC in the news!

Recent stories have appeared in the local press:
KREXTV.com:   http://www.westernslopenow.com/story/d/story/unaweep-cliffs-saved-for-climbing/52239/sWBJdWqfF0Gc2vXuRSFTZA

GJ Free Press: http://www.postindependent.com/news/grandjunction/13331648-113/access-wccc-cliffs-fund

Grand Junction Daily Sentinel: http://www.gjsentinel.com/news/articles/pair-of-unaweep-cliffs-bought-to-preserve-access (A password may be needed to read this one. It was published on Saturday, October 22.

Thursday, October 9, 2014

UNAWEEP CLIFFS SAVED!

Grand Junction, Colorado. October 9, 2014 - Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition (WCCC) and the Access Fund are pleased to announce the purchase of two major cliffs in Unaweep Canyon that secure permanent public access. Acquisition of the Television Wall and Lower Mothers Buttress culminates a 25-year history of conservation and public access along this portion of the Unaweep/Tabeguache Scenic Byway. 
This purchase adds 40 acres of land that hosts more than 50 high-quality granite climbing routes to previously protected lands. Public access to these walls was closed three years ago when the property owner sought to sell the property. After two years of negotiations to purchase or lease the cliff line, WCCC and Access Fund reached an agreement to obtain the properties.
“It is very exciting to have this long-term project come to fruition,” says Jesse Zacher, WCCC President. “After many years of negotiations and planning, it is fantastic to see it all finally coming together. Public access to these previously closed cliffs is a great asset for present and future public recreation groups.”
These two major crags are adjacent to the Sunday Wall, which was purchased by the Access Fund in 1991 in partnership with three local climbers, and the Upper Mothers Buttress, which was secured in 2010 by WCCC with the help of Colorado climbers John and Marti Peterson. With much of the canyon privately held, WCCC, Access Fund, and local climbers have worked diligently to purchase the unique granite cliffs of Unaweep over the last two decades.
Steve Johnson, chair of the Access Fund Loan and Acquisitions Committee and Regional Coordinator for western Colorado commented, “This land acquisition is important for climbers across the region and the nation because it unlocks access to great multi-pitch granite crags in a really scenic location. Acquisition of the Lower Mothers Buttress and the Television Wall consolidates free public access to the major cliffs in Unaweep.”  
With a narrow window of time to protect the properties, Access Fund awarded WCCC with a Climbing Preservation Grant to defray closing costs and an Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign low-interest loan of $134,200 to acquire the threatened climbing area. Access Fund and WCCC have applied for a significant grant from Great Outdoors Colorado (GOCO), a lottery-funded open space grant program. The project provides a unique opportunity to preserve conservation and recreation values in the geologically unique canyon of the Uncompahgre Plateau. The GOCO application comes with additional support from Mesa County’s Board of County Commissioners, Mesa Land Trust, Conservation Colorado, the American Alpine Club, and National Outdoor Leadership School. If WCCC is unable to secure sufficient funds from grants or private donors, it will pursue an alternative plan to subdivide the cliffs from the total of 40 acres, and will sell two home sites, while preserving the cliffs in perpetuity.
WCCC now needs the support of climbers, recreationalists, and the people of western Colorado to pay back the loan and fundraise for stewardship of Unaweep Cliffs. Donations are encouraged and can be made to WCCC at www.westernslopeclimbers.blogspot.com.
WCCC is extremely grateful for the important role of its partners and volunteers. Significant funding was received from the Aspen, Colorado-based Alpenglow Foundation, the family foundation of climbers John and Laurel Catto, and Shaw Construction in Grand Junction. As a Telluride-based real estate attorney, Steve Johnson provided pro bono legal services to WCCC in connection with the purchase. Dave Foley provided pro bono survey work, and the appraisal work was also donated.
The Realtor assisting both parties in the transaction, Christi Reece of Bray & Company, also generously donated $5,000 of her commission. “I want to show [our local leaders] what a group of committed citizens can do for our community. My dad, William C. Hall, was a Realtor and was instrumental in preserving the Hartman Rocks area in Gunnison (CO) when it came up for sale, in similar fashion, and I can’t imagine Gunnison without it. I didn’t want to see these properties lost to owners who would not allow the climbing to continue.”
The WCCC plans to partner with Access Fund to host a trail day on October 26th to link existing trails to the new cliffs.

Contacts:
Eve Tallman
Secretary
Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition
435.259.5639 

Joe Sambataro
National Access Director
Access Fund
425.218.8234



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